Welcome to this guide on the anatomy of a diamond. In this article, we’ll explore the different parts of a diamond, from the crown to the culet, using easy-to-understand language and helpful diagrams. We’ll also delve into the unique anatomy of antique-cut diamonds, highlighting what sets them apart from their modern counterparts. Let’s dive in and uncover the fascinating details that make diamonds so captivating.

Anatomy of a Diamond: The Various Parts:

The Crown

The crown is the upper part of the diamond that you can see when it’s set in a ring or other piece of jewelry. Think of it as the “face” of the diamond that catches your eye when you first look at it.

The crown starts right above the “girdle,” which is the widest part of the diamond that separates the upper part of the stone (the Crown) and the lower part of the stone (the Pavilion).

The Crown is comprised of various facets from which the largest one is called the table. The table is surrounded by an array of smaller facets that usually have names like “star,” “kite,” or “upper girdle” facets.

The size of the crown is expressed in “height”. A diamond can have a high crown or a flatter crown. The height and angles of the crown play a major role on the stone’s way of refracting light.

The Table

The table is the largest flat facet on the top of the diamond, and it’s part of the crown. When you look directly down at a diamond, the table is the surface you’ll see the most. It plays a significant role in how light enters and exits the diamond, affecting its sparkle and brilliance. A well-proportioned table allows for optimal light reflection, making the diamond appear more vibrant.

The Girdle

The girdle is the narrow band that encircles the diamond, separating the crown from the pavilion, or the top from the bottom. Think of it as the diamond’s “equator.” The girdle can be polished, faceted, or rough, and its thickness can vary. It’s an important part of the diamond because it helps to secure the stone in its setting.

The Pavilion

The pavilion is the lower portion of the diamond, extending from the girdle down to the culet, which is the pointed or flat bottom of the stone. The pavilion’s main job is to reflect light, contributing to the diamond’s overall brilliance and sparkle.

The angles and quality of the pavilion’s facets play a critical role in how light exits the diamond, making it a key factor in the stone’s appearance. A well-cut pavilion will help to maximize the diamond’s brilliance, while a poorly cut one can make the diamond appear dull.

The Culet

The culet is the tiny point or facet at the bottom of the diamond‘s pavilion. In modern diamonds, the culet is often a small, flat facet that the cutter has added, while in others it may be a point. In antique diamonds, you’ll frequently encounter open culets, which are larger and more noticeable. These open culets are a signature feature of antique cuts like the Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut.

The Facets

Facets are the flat surfaces that you see on a diamond. These are strategically cut and polished to reflect and refract light, contributing to the diamond’s brilliance and fire. In a standard Round Brilliant Cut diamond, the most common modern cut, there are usually 57 or 58 facets. It’s worth noting that the facets on the girdle are not counted in this total.

In antique diamonds, the number of facets can vary, and their arrangement is often less symmetrical than in modern cuts. This is because antique diamonds were hand-cut with simpler tools, making each stone unique. The facets in antique diamonds are often larger and fewer in number, contributing to a different kind of sparkle.

Symmetry and Proportions

Symmetry and proportions refer to the arrangement and balance of a diamond’s facets. These factors are crucial in determining how the diamond interacts with light, affecting its overall brilliance and sparkle. In a well-proportioned diamond, the facets are aligned in a balanced manner, allowing for optimal light reflection and refraction. Symmetry is graded by gemological labs, and a diamond with excellent symmetry will generally exhibit superior brilliance.

Proportions, on the other hand, relate to the ratios between different parts of the diamond, such as the depth compared to the diameter. These proportions are carefully calculated to maximize the diamond’s ability to capture and reflect light.

How Antique Diamonds Differ in Anatomy

When it comes to antique-cut diamonds, the anatomy can differ quite significantly from their modern counterparts. Here’s a quick rundown of how each part varies:

• The Crown: Antique diamonds often have a higher crown, giving them a more “pillowy” appearance compared to the flatter crowns of modern cuts.
• The Table: The table in antique diamonds is generally smaller, which contributes to their unique dispersion of light, often described as a “warmer” or “softer” sparkle.
• The Girdle: Antique diamonds frequently lack a girdle or have a very thin one, as the technology for adding a girdle came later.
• The Pavilion: The pavilion in antique diamonds is often deeper, affecting the way the stone plays with light and creating a different kind of brilliance.
• The Culet: Antique diamonds often feature an “open culet,” which is essentially a flat or slightly rounded bottom, as opposed to the pointed culet seen in modern diamonds.
• Facets: The facets on antique diamonds are generally larger and fewer in number, contributing to their unique, softer glow.
• Symmetry and Proportions: Perfect symmetry is almost a giveaway that a diamond is not antique. The hand-cut nature of these stones means that each is unique, and they were often cut to emphasize individual characteristics rather than conform to a standard set of proportions.

Conclusion

In this guide, we’ve taken a comprehensive look at the anatomy of a diamond, breaking down its various parts from the crown to the culet. Understanding these components is essential for anyone interested in diamonds, whether you’re a novice or a seasoned collector. We’ve also delved into the unique characteristics of antique-cut diamonds, highlighting how their anatomy differs from modern stones. These differences are not just historical footnotes; they contribute to the unique charm and allure that make antique diamonds so sought-after.

For further reading I recommend checking out the following posts:

Understanding the 4 C’s of Diamonds

The 4 C’s and Antique Diamonds

Additional Resources

• Gemological Institute of America (GIA) – For comprehensive courses and articles on diamond anatomy and the 4 C’s of diamonds.
• HRD Antwerp – A leading authority in diamond certification, offering valuable insights into the grading and evaluation of diamonds.
• “Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems” by Jack Ogden – This book offers an in-depth look into the history and anatomy of diamonds, including antique cuts.
• “The Nature of Diamonds” by George E. Harlow – Covers the geological aspects of diamonds and offers a historical perspective.